Systems using spot-emitters or inline emitter tube are best in order to obtain optimal efficiency and minimize future maintenance.

     You don’t necessarily save water with drip systems if they aren’t designed and installed correctly.  Proper programming of the irrigation controller is important too.  Also, as plants mature, minor modifications of the drip system should be made to ensure that the water is going to where the roots can get it.

Sprinkler and Rotor Systems:  Sprinkler and rotor systems are mostly used for lawns and large groundcover areas.  (Properly designed sprinkler and rotor systems can also be used in other planting areas, but generally a drip system will be more efficient, although they do require more maintenance).

     There are many types of sprinklers and rotors, with many nozzle types for different applications.  4″ pop-up sprinklers and gear driven rotors are best for lawns, while 6″ and 12″ pop-ups are best for groundcover and shrub areas.  Stay away from impact-type “rainbirds”.  (They waste water and often get out of adjustment; they should be extinct).

     To properly design a system you should know the available water pressure and gallons-per-minute, while properly spacing the sprinklers–based on size of area and nozzles used.

     Rain Sensors:  Rain sensors can be added to most existing irrigation controllers.  They are ideal for spring and fall rains when controllers are operating.  Wireless models are available (fairly economical).  The sensor is adjusted so when a certain amount of rain falls, the next scheduled run day will be skipped and water will be saved.  Otherwise, the controller will stay on its regular schedule.

     ET Controllers (”evapo-transpiration” controllers):  These water-saving irrigation controllers are set-up to automatically adjust station run times, depending on weather and length of day, or soil moisture.  (Evapo-transpiration is basically the rate the plant uses up water).

     There are three main types of ET controllers: those with an on-site weather monitor, those with an off-site monitor which have a monthly fee, and those with soil moisture sensors wired to the controller.  We have experience with the Weathermatic Smart Line.  The controller is installed along with an on-site weather monitor, which as a built-in rain sensor.  (They now have wireless monitors).  There is a relatively minimal additional cost for the Smart Line set-up over a standard controller.

     In order to maximize the controller’s efficiency, you can’t rely on the default settings for all systems.  You must customize/fine-tune the controller for specific plantings, soil and microclimate, and for type of drip-system.

     The functions are easy to use, and after making some adjustments two or three times during the first month of operation, you’ll have a pretty reliable system.

     Basically, nitrogen encourages growth and green leaves, phosphorus is important for flower, fruit, and root development, and potassium is a key to overall plant health.  The 6-20-20 fertilizer is low in nitrogen and relatively high in phosphorus and potassium.  This is why it’s an ideal starter fertilizer and fall fertilizer.  We don’t want high nitrogen that will encourage tender new growth at those times.

     New plantings go through a transition period when they’re removed from their containers and planted in a new environment.  They need the right combination of growth and root development.  Additionally, new plants get a small amount of organic nitrogen from the compost soil amendment we use.  (The compost also has other components that benefit plant and soil health).  The slow-release fertilizers provide a broad range of nutrients that become available for plant uptake over the course of several months.

     Our approach to maintenance is that we want each plant to look as healthy and vigorous as possible.  With this in mind, we apply 6-20-20 fertilizer in the fall around all plants that need better size, vigor, or color.  We routinely fertilize all Roses, Rhododendrons, Camellias, Azaleas, Citrus and fruit trees.

     In late February/early March, we apply a high nitrogen fertilizer to stimulate new spring growth.  We use either 16-6-8 or 21-4-4 fertilizer on all plants and trees that need it.  (Rhododendrons, Azaleas, and ferns will only get another application of 6-20-20–if anything–since they don’t perform well with too much nitrogen).  These granular fertilizers get watered-in by the late winter/early spring rains.  We use fertilizer injectors for drip systems where plantings require additional fertilizer applications during the growing season.

     The fertilizers we use are inorganic, meaning they are derived from mineral sources.  Organic fertilizers are derived from plant or animal sources.  The nutrients that are used by the plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and micronutrients) have the same molecular structure, whether they are organic or inorganic.  The plants don’t know the difference.  Inorganic fertilizers are far-less expensive than organic, are easier to apply, and are formulated with substantially-higher percentages of nutrients.  (Therefore, less fertilizer needs to be applied to get the same results).

     For new landscapes it is best to submit a soil sample for laboratory analysis.  The sample is anlyzed to show nutrient and organic levels, pH, and recommended fertilizers and amendments necessary for optimal plant growth, at a cost of approximately $100.  With this knowledge we will adjust our fertilizer program as needed.

Remember to water your plants.

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